Today was a chance for Windy Wellington to earn her name, and she gave it a half hearted attempt first thing, then gave up and decided to be kind to me for my first proper day of exploring.
I caught the train from Porirua to the city centre, and set to work getting lost in the streets. With the size of Wellington I soon realised that although this is the capital city of New Zealand, it's a lot more compact than Auckland, and getting completely lost was going to be harder than I had thought.
It seemed to me that there is a different vibe to Wellington. It's as if they've decided that the financial district only needs to be so big, and will sit here, the government buildings will sit nicely in this space here, add a block or three of retail streets, and a dash of funky shops over here, and.. we're done.
It's great, whereas in big cities like London there are quite a few cool and funky shopping streets all over the city, which move up and down the scale of hipness depending on where the creative types have settled their skinny jeans that year, Wellington seemed to have been built in the same way that you'd add areas to a Lego set, or lay out a vegetable garden, if you're a green fingered type.
It helps that Wellington is bordered on most sides by hills that even the most stubborn architect would be frustrated with building on, and by the harbour on the other.
Having explored a few of the coffee establishments, of which there are many, in fact every nook seems to house a quick fix of caffeine. If New York is the City that never sleeps, it wouldn't be much of surprise to me if Wellington is the City that can't sleep.
Cuba street in the centre is well known as the indie area, and for good reason, a mix of herbal stores, vintage clothing shops, comic book stores and art galleries it was a perfect place to spend lunchtime, sat outside people watching. The only problem I can foresee with Cuba St. is being able to resist spending in the galleries or the Ukulele shop, but I'm proud of my resilience so far.
With this being lunchtime as well, I chose a good looking little cafe called Plum, and was immediately glad I had. Meg, who took my order was wonderfully friendly and cheery, and wrote me a little list of must see's while I was in town, in amongst recommendations from the menu. I'm in Wellington at the perfect time, as they are in the midst of 'Wellington on a plate', a foodie festival that many of the cafes and restaurants participate in. As I just wanted something light, and that would soak up some of the copious amount of coffee I'd already had, Meg's suggestion of the Pork Belly & Pear salad sounded spot on, and good god she was right.
Having savoured every bite of this heavenly lunch, I was fully charged to spend another hour or so, in exactly the same place, drinking espresso and watching the world go by.
The afternoon, when I could tear myself away from the exertion of people watching, was spent walking around the harbour area and marvelling that only metres behind me is the vibrancy of a new city for me, but out in front of me was the calm of the sun and the clouds changing the colours of the water.
As I wandered aimlessly I was surprised at the public art, or more so at the fact there seems to be something around every corner, including a small reminder that this is a nation that has a passing attraction to Rugby, nothing obvious, but a small hint.
Also, I was impressed how, due to space restrictions, some parts of the City seem to have been made of a collage of architectural styles, wedged together into any available gap.
As Marc was going to meet me for a bite in town a little later, I took a short walk to the Museum of Wellington City & Sea. Housed inside one of the older wharf buildings, the museum recounts the story of Wellingtons maritime heritage. I had the museum almost to myself, and whiled away a good hour or so amongst the displays and exhibits.
Meeting up with Marc, we grabbed a couple of drinks on Courtney Place, and a bite to eat in a Japanese restaurant it was time to say goodnight to Wellington. I'll be back in tomorrow to find out more about the heart of this little big city, or to sit around in more coffee shops, which may be the same thing.
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